• Replacement Seat (I chose the Mustang 3 piece, Corbin, or stock Std seat will work) (VRCC Store)
• Tail light assembly (Std Valkyrie, or Aurora) - (Custom Chrome (J&P Cycles, http://www.j-pcycles.com/)) Note: If you have the CB, you cannot use the Std. Valkyrie Tail light
• Trailer 4 wire quick connect (any auto parts store)
• Honda Shop Manual

• Turn signal assembly (Aurora). Note: If you want dual filament turn signals (running lights and turn signals) have the supplier physically verify the item shipping has 2 wires off each turn signal, some Auroras are listed as dual filament, but are only signal filament
• Tag mount and frame (Custom Chrome (mount), Signal Dynamics (frame))
• Aux. Brake and turn LED lights (Life Brite, http://www.mcaccessories.com/)

Step 1 – Removing the Trunk

1. Remove the seat
2. Remove the right side cover
3. Undo the Antenna
4. Undo rear speakers (if installed)
5. If you have the CB, undo the left side CB cable, and the right side CB plug
6. Undo Brake \ Running light plug, mark a spot where wires are under the seat area (for easy access to attach and detach), this is where the new trailer plug will go.
7. Remove bolts inside trunk holding the trunk to the frame (6 bolts, have small round plastic covers over them)
8. Carefully lift trunk, and place on soft blanket and cover (scratches easily)
9. Remove trunk frame, 4 bolts, set aside (now you know why the "Quick Release" is worth it)

Step 2 – Tapping the rails (If you are doing the "Quick Release" Modification)

Doing one rail at a time is the preferred way as the other rail is left attached securing the fender. If both are removed, support the fender by placing a block of wood between the fender and the tire. 2 people may be needed to reattach the fender.

Important – I recommend that you have a machine shop perform the cutting and tapping of the rails. If you are uncomfortable doing this type of work, either take the part to a machine shop, or get help from someone familiar with these tools.

1. Remove one rail
2. Put on eye protection and gloves
3. Locate both studs
4. Place duct tape over the rail where cutting to help reduce scratching
5. Using a cutting disc (Dremel moto tool with fiberglass cutting blades work well) cut the stud off next to the rail. Be very careful about scratching.
6. Repeat on the other stud.
7. Mark the center where the old stud was
8. Using a small, new, drill bit, drill a pilot hole (make sure to brace the rail so it will not move, use care not to scratch the rail), recommend you start smaller that 1/8", depending on the power of the drill press
9. Select the size bolt to tap for (Note: Finding metric chrome bolts is much harder than US sizes, use a similar US size ,if necessary, to get the right chrome bolts, verify they will fit through the trunk mount holes, lengths are 16 – 20 mm (length) front and 24 mm (length) rear, 2 each)
10. Work you way up using successive drill bits to the size recommended for the tap you are using
11. Repeat for the other mounting point (where the stud was)
12. Tap the hole (if you do not know how to tap metal, get help, replacement rails are over $300 per set)
13. Note: If the front hole does not hold a tap, drill out to a size larger than the bolt, and have a nut spot-welded on the inside of the trunk rail to thread the bolt into.
14. Reinstall the rail on the bike
15. Repeat for the other side

Step 3 – Brake, tail light, Turn signals, and Tag mount

Using the Std Valkyrie Tail light

1. Remove the black plug on the rear fender
2. Install the tail light
3. Run the wires under the fender to exit where the seat rests
4. Wire according to Step 4 Wiring Instructions .

Using a Custom Tail Light, Turn Signals and Tag Mount

1. Remove the tag mount and turn signals, carefully detach the wires at the bullet couplings (set aside old mount if you ever want to reinstall)
2. Determine the look and fit of the new taillight, turn signals and tag mount (make sure everything fits where you want it, and check underneath the fender to determine what you have to drill through)
3. Position the Custom Chrome tag mount where desired, check level and position carefully. Mark location of holes with a grease pencil.
4. Place a block of wood between the tire and where you are drilling through the fender.
5. Drill 2 holes for the bolts, and one larger hole for the wires if you are mounting the lighted tag frame.
6. Mount tag mount
7. Cut a slot in the tag for the lighted frame wires to pass around, tape wires and carefully feed wires around tag, and through the hole in the tag moung and fender. ***Caution*** use extra care with the wires, nicks in these wires will be the most likely reason for shorts in the brake and running lights.
8. Position Aurora carefully, mark bolt holes, then drill 2 holes for the bolts (depending where you mounted the light, you may be able to run the wires through the existing square hole in the fender)
9. Carefully mount the light (using both rubber mounts will allow the light to mold to the fender better) to the fender, after feeding the wires through the rubber mount (consider going to Step 4 Wiring Instructions to wire the lights before mounting the tail light to the fender, this may make it easoer than working under the bike)
10. Adjust the tag mount and taillight for alignment, and tighten down, use loc-tite as necessary.

Step 4 – Wiring Instructions

Wiring the Custom Tail light and Tag frame light

1. Cover the tag frame light wires with shrink-wrap (use that supplied with the Aurora for the turn signals, if available)
2. Run an extra brake wire from the seat area underneath the fender to the new taillight, cover this wire with shrink-wrap or other protective coating
3. Secure both the tag frame light wires, and brake light wire underneath the fender in the wire channel, using tie wraps or similar method
4. Connect the running light wires (if your Aurora has dual filament turn signal, connect these also) and the tag frame running light wire to the existing tag light wire connector, solder
5. Connect the tag frame light brake wire, and the brake light wire to the new brake light wire you ran under the fender, solder
6. Connect right and left turn signals to the respective existing turn signal wire connections, solder
7. Connect the tag frame light ground to the existing ground connector

Wiring the Std Tail light

Cover the running, ground, and brake light from the new Tail light with protective shrink-wrap, run underneath the fender to come out under the seat, run wire out hole

Connecting the under seat wires

1. Cut the brake, running light wire at the place you marked in step one (be careful to leave yourself room to attach and reattach the wires)
2. Reconnect the connection end underneath the right side cover
3. Connect the brake light (and running light and ground on the Std Valkyrie tail light) and the brake, running, and ground wires from the right side connector (in 2 above) to the 4 prong trailer Quick Connect, and solder (the bare prong should have no connection, or a ground only connection, otherwise it will short out)
4. Connect the other Trailer Quick Connect to the trunk side brake, running, and ground wires, make sure the wires line up properly with the other side of the trailer Quick Connect, solder
5. Test all lights

Step 5 – Reattaching the trunk

With the Quick Connect option

1. Carefully position the trunk (avoid scratching)
2. Place bolts through the trunk rail into the tapped rail and secure
3. Run wires to there respective connections, and connect
4. Connect the trailer Quick Connect
5. Replace seat

Without the Quick Connect option

Reverse Step 1, remembering to connect the trailer Quick Connect

Congratulations, you now have the hottest cruiser made. Add some Hot pipes, and go Hunting for Hardleys
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